The Art Deco style was a dominant factor in fashion and jewelry design in the period between World War I and World War II. It was a reaction to the Art Nouveau swirling, naturalistic style, and used simpler lines and more geometric shapes. Art Deco jewelry was popular in France and Europe, but it never quite made itself felt in the US, at least in fine jewelry. Those who bought diamond and platinum jewelry continued to demand ornate European court styles or historic styles like Egyptian, as reinterpreted by the late Nineteenth and early Twentieth Centuries. The Art Deco jewelry we see now was made by costume jewelry makers, for the most part. Instead of platinum, gemstones, jade and onyx, the Art Deco jewelry collectible is made of silver, enamel, marcasites, semi-precious stones, ceramics, plastics and rhinestones.

Because it was made for regular people, there was a lot more made, and more has survived to today. If you look at the jewelry trays at antique shows, auctions and even flea markets, the Art Deco jewelry is there. Most of it was made with fairly good techniques and has survived intact, although close examination to areas with marcasites or rhinestones is necessary to make sure that there are no stones missing. Unfortunately, replacing missing stones is nearly impossible, due to the lack of quality control in the manufacture of either of these jewelry components.

In spire of this, you should look at the Art Deco jewelry. The clean lines make it modern enough to wear today, and the geometric style never seems to go out of style anymore. The color schemes are usually bright and modern, and are also quite acceptable for today’s fashions.

One of the biggest changes from previous styles of jewelry to Art Deco was the re-invigoration of the brooch. With the fashion style emphasizing simple lines, there was plenty of real estate and need for a woman to express her personality in her jewelery. Brooches were worn as shoulder fasteners, hat decoration and on the wrists of gloves. These brooches, not really being exposed to many hard knocks and not having been worn since the inter-war period, should be in good condition.

It is quite possible that the jewelry boxes of your mother or grandmother, depending on your age, may have Art Deco jewelry in it. Unless your ancestor regularly disposes of older jewelry when it goes out of style, there should be some brooches, if nothing else. There may also be powder compacts and cigarette cases, as this was an age of smoking. You may also find slinky metal or chain evening bags. These are well worth saving, as their like well probably never come again. (While you are saving things, save the gloves. There are few choices in gloves anymore, and the gloves might be the finishing touch to a great costume, or the finest final touch for an evening out.)

You can do research about Art Deco jewelry in books about the style in general or in those about the jewelry in particular. Often these will focus on the high-value examples, but they should give you an eye toward identifying the style in other materials. Any book by Dover Publishing will be heavy on illustrations from whether the designs of the time or the actual pieces if they were made. By looking at the manufacturers, you can tell the likelihood of rare or common materials. (Companies using high-value materials will be names you recognize.)

Look for books and then examples of this jewelry style that can be worn today.

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